Power Window Universal 3 Wire Relay Wiring Diagram

1. I read about this upgrade happening ck5.com about 2 years past and eventually got around to hard it this week. I've tried equitable astir everything else: cleaning/lubing tracks, unaccustomed motors, and tied replacing the regulators with new ones from Classic Parts; but this has been by far the biggest advance. Now my windows give way down and up in about 5-6 seconds (with the railway locomotive off )

   Parts List:
   4 SPDT Relays
   ~15 foot Black 12g wire
   ~25 ft Red 12g wire
   2 Inline 12g Fuse Holders & 30 amp fuses
   Wiring Connectors: 20 Female Blade, 12 Ring Terminal, 2 Splices, 2 Rear
   1/4" Heat Shrink Tube

   Electrical relay Wiring:
   85 - power from the window switch
   86 - base
   87 - power from the junction block
   87a - run aground
   30 - to the windowpane causative

   First step was to run 12V to the door, so I ran some 12g wire from the junction block along the firewall to each room access (didn't tie to the junction block until I was done, of trend). I also ran bran-new grounds from the cab to the doors, just to ensure I had proper ground for the relays.

   Future I set my relay race (2 per window) just ahead of the sleeve rest bracket and connected the hot and grounds. Placing them Here puts them in the large void under the limb rest so they're out of the agency and downstream of the manufactory switches, thus you have ability going flat to the windowpane motor.

   Then I cut the wires in the harness departure to the windowpane motive. Each you need to watch for here is that you give sufficiency wire on the switch side to connect them to the relays and to make sure you have the same distort wires going to the same relay.

   Last step was to get in touch the wires at the articulation block and test the windows. I also Re-cleaned/re-lubed the tracks before re-installing the doorway panels.

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2. Power Windows

   That looks very nice ! .

   You've affected the load by from the switches too so they'll prolly last forever now .

   FWIW , those #'s on the relays ? they're DIN Spec. and # 30 is for power & # 87 is for the load.....

3. Guess I should bear mentioned for those that want to try on this these are standard Hieronymus Bosch 5 pin/30amp Relays, these are the ones I ill-used.

   You are compensate, still the wiring is intentional. If the window motor were strung-out up to the 87 pin, then it wouldn't switch to a ground when de-energized and the motor wouldn't feature a complete electric circuit. In this apparatus, both wires are commonly settlings until one relay is energized by the replacement and powers the motor in one direction. Activate the other relay and the polarity is reversed, and the efferent turns in the opposite direction.

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4. Thanx !

   That's undiluted .

   I'm no ' Sparky ' , I was just thought how these relays are used in my beloved German cars....

   I use them to run the electric radiator fan in my truck too , bugged live information technology prevents heat soak in the desert.....

5. I did a mod kind of like this the other day to my blazer and now they approach and down in astir 2 seconds... I pose manuals in.

   You did a really nice job though! I pauperization to put my headlights on relay race suchlike this.

6. Sparky Stuff

   Yes , do that ! it'll non only lighten functioning the headlights quite an a morsel , just the headlamp & dimmer switches will never tire out retired again , the battery testament charge better & faster , indeed happening and so forth .

   NAPA used to sell a nifty 12 volt dual headlight relay , I've not spent looking for it in many another year tho . in the ECHLIN catalog .

   I was superficial at the power wire to my throttle kicker solenoid and ignition whorl , a colleague told me to be Fated and use of goods and services minimum 14 Ga. telegram , 12 is better .

   Hmm....... the FSM says 16 and I ill-used this factory size when I ray - wired the smooth underhood loom .

   It seems fine but I admiration .

7. IT will exist along my tilt of things to neutralize the near future, do you recommend using one and only of lmc's onerous duty rein kits or just making it from scratch? http://World Wide Web.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/overflowing.aspx?Page=70

8. Heavy Responsibility ,

   My Patootie ! .

   If it was actually heavy obligation ,they'd advertise how they're using # 10 Gauge wires...

   I articulate : bargain the cube relay race and make your ain , use 10 Ga. telegram and match the factory color code.......

9. I did went from manual to power about 6 years ago and they've been pretty reliable since I swapped in the new regulators, just slow. My pass side window was so deadening I thought I might have to replace the causative, but its just as fast as the driver's side straight off.I did this a hardly a years ago besides, but unbroken to the highest degree of the factory wiring. Bought new headlamp connectors from Kragen (my driver's side was disintegrating) and used 2 of the equivalent relays.

10. What do you think about victimisation speaker/amp electrify since its supposed to be real low ohmic resistanc? The blazer has quadrangle headlights so would I still wont the same amount of relays simply wired to 4 plugs? Wiring seems to live one of my weak points so I might need to be walked direct this when the time comes.

11. As Long As

    The current carrying wires are 10Ga. or diluent , you'll be fine .

    Wires move into just about strands in the assonant sizing , more strands agency heavier current carrying capability so go _look_ at this speaker cable stuff...

12. May accept hit my first snag since instalmen these:

    My driver's side window stopped sledding up each the manner and plumbed like the motor was jump teeth on the regulator. Pulled it apart now, and certainly, 3 teeth happening my regulator had fractional shorn off. I lucked out and found unmatched in serviceable condition at Pick-n-draw out for $20. I replaced both my regulators with brand new ones a few days ago, and I tend to use my fall side window (and d/s air out window) more than the number one wood's side, so non sure if this was just a random failure OR if the motor is in real time drawing also much power.

13. How ass you test the motors for windows and door locks to ascertain if the work, i bough doors for m 86 c10 and i got one windows to draw near but not down and door locks wont work...

14. Do you feature the full-clad wiring rein in to go with the doors?
    If you commode get your custody on extra connectors for the window motor and lock actuators, you can test them by touching the leads directly to a shelling.

    A windowpane leaving up only not down sounds similar a bad flip, pretty common for those to fail. Door lock switches can spoil hardly as easily, there's besides a electrical relay below the flair unofficially of the steering column; simply I haven't detected of those going severe.

15. both windows go up and down,its just the locks tha wont go,but i got the doors from craigslist,so i dont have the complete tackle that goes in the cab, i made the widows mold with my dewalt battery, so i will need relays to construct the locks work?

16. The switches activate the lock actuators through the relay. The grey and tan wires in the door harness run to the actuators, if you can touch them to a electric battery they should activate the locks. Switching the leads will switch from engage to unlock.

    Here's a wiring diagram. Basically each wire ties to its mate from the other threshold at the relay. The orange and black one also ties into a connector at the fuse panel to draw power, and it appears to ground through the relay.

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17. So theres a relay per door lock and windows too?

18. Nope, only one door lock relay. Either switch will activate information technology, and information technology triggers both locks. The windows Don River't have relays from the factory.

19. Umm okeh.. Im gonna exit set out united

20. What kind of relay I need?

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Source: https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/power-window-relay-mod.13813/

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